
Picture: Bangkok Post
An alert reader of this blog recently tipped me off to this story. Since I was heading back to Bangkok, I decided to follow it up.

In 2005, the New World department store building in Banglamphu partially collapsed, killing one woman. The building had been constructed in violation of the building code, aiming to cash in on the roaring tourist trade on nearby Khao San Road. After the tragic incident however, the building was closed and slated for demolition. But as so often seems to happen in Thailand…nothing has happened. Almost ten years later the shell of the building is still standing over an intersection of Sam Sen Road, literally 100 metres or so North of the end of Khao San a block past the thronged footpaths of the Banglamphu market.
The New World, true to its name, has not died however. It just has taken a strange and unexpected turn. The building’s basement flooded (I am not sure whether from rainwater or burst pipes), and a large, dark pool of water has formed in the building’s lower floors, an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes. Until, at least, one resident decided to release some fish who would keep the mosquito population down. Over the years though, with nowhere to go, the fish have multiplied to fill the dank lake.
Recently several Thai newspapers ran stories on the dangers of the site, which was attracting more and more people to come and feed the fish. I of course, immediately decided to join them!

Finding the department store was not too difficult. By brushing past the street market at its back door, and stumbling down a rubbish-filled alley (next to mysterious sign “Gay Cuts!!”) I was able to peer in through a wire fence – and there it was, the dark and mysterious lake, lapping against concrete pillars, up staircases and onto beaches of rubbish and building construction materials. And sure enough it was filled with koi carp, pale from lack of sun (or did I imagine that?).

I could not find a way to get in, but in the end I decided that was OK. Just gazing in at the strange lake in the bowels of a doomed building (the rest of which might come crashing down at any minute) filled me with a vague but powerful sense of unease.

I felt sorry for the fish.