I Put A Spell On You

10 03 2011

Earlier this week I went to Causeway Bay to put a spell on someone. A curse, to be exact. The glitzy shopping district might seem an odd location for it, but it is here (underneath a freeway overpass) that Hong Kong’s most sought-after avengers ply their trade. The grandmotherly women who sit at makeshift sidewalk shrines on Canal Road East “beat out the devil” in the service of the cult of the White Tiger.

Apparently rural women in Southern China had long worshipped a white tiger god and kept its effigy to rid their homes of pests, rats and other undesirables. Somehow in the twentieth century this concept morphed, giving the women wider powers to exterminate the bigger pests of modern life – incompetent bosses and unrepentant exs.

Forget the tiger moms. Its the claws of White Tiger Grannies you really have to worry about!

By a stroke of luck (or was it destiny?) I arrived in Hong Kong halfway through the annual White Tiger Festival. This is when the screeching pitch of vengeance reaches a crescendo and the wronged masses descend on the old White Tiger ladies to deal out retribution.

People line up all night to see their tormentors suffer, and the most famous of the Tiger women is said to work around the clock, clearing 30,000 HKD per day ( typical of Hong Kong that even the supernatural is discussed here in crassly commercial terms).

The process takes about ten minutes and costs 50 HKD. Not bad to destroy a life. First, the woman will ask you to hand over a picture of the subject of your spell, ( or failing that you can write their name on a piece of paper). Then she will place the paper or picture on a small brick and pound it with a shoe, kept at the ready for just this purpose, berating the hapless person all the while. This is “beating out the devil”. When some serious damage has been done, the tattered remains of the accursed’s identity will be placed in one of the cardboard tiger effigies, and ritually burnt.

Job done.

Incense is then burned and white rice thrown on the customer to cleanse them of any bad karma. Still, the people who were thronging to the vengenace shrines looked shifty. More than one turned away from my camera (or was it their own conscience?)

People warned me that any bad karma sent into the world would be returned, but I chose to take this as tacked-on moralist mumbo jumbo. I have a feeling in the original White Tiger cult, they really didn’t care.

So who did I curse? And will it work? Well, I won’t answer the first point but await with interest to find out the second…




4 responses

27 03 2011
ilbonito blog 2007

[…] need to know where to look. In addition, the area has a few more unexpected features like the White Tiger voodoo women under the Canal Road East overpass and an unexpected immigrant neighborhood (see […]

9 08 2011
Ghostworld « ilbonito blog 2007

[…] I patted myself on the back for my recent coffin donation at a Bangkok ‘body snatcher’ temple, saving one soul from this fate with a proper burial and at the same time topping up my karma,( much depleted from my run-in with the Causeway Bay Tiger ladies.) […]

1 03 2013
Wrath of the white tiger | ilbonito blog 2007

[…] I discovered when I attended the festival two years ago, the festival is considered the best time to visit the Chinese voodoo ladies who sit under the […]

10 09 2014
Hong Kong’s 25 most underrated sights | ilbonito blog 2007

[…] The Shoe Beaters of Causeway Bay, elderly voodoo women who sit under a traffic overpass in Causeway Bay doling out vengeance to their clients’ most hated, courtesy of the White Tiger Spirit, for 60 HKD a pop. […]

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: