Two days in Sham Shui Po

6 03 2017



I spent the weekend in Sham Shui Po, eating delicious bread at the Xinjiang Muslim restaurant and shopping for toys and vinyl at Paul’s Records.
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Along the way I stumbled upon a local recreation of the Sistine Chapel, worshippers making offerings of fatty pork to the White Tiger Spirit at a local shrine, a pawn store, herbalists selling dried snakes and turtles, a woman sitting on the subway with acupuncture needles stuck in her head, street vendors selling floppy discs and 80s porn outside the Dragon Centre and a bizarre rundown mall in neighbouring Mongkok selling only coins and stamps.

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But the highlight was undoubtedly the musty and cramped Paul’s Records, where local icon and former street market seller Paul presides over his precious stash of “musical orphans.” We spent an hour or two in the cramped one-room store listening to Paul’s thoughts on Wong Kar Wai and Hong Kong’s historic resistance to Latin music, his memories of a Jackson 5 cover band being killed in the Vietnam War and his complaints about mainland money inflating the value of Teresa Teng records. Amazing stuff.




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