30 05 2016


The mystery of the turtle lake

3 04 2016


Hanoi is dotted with lakes, big and small. It’s traditional centre is the Hoan Kiem Lake, circled by trees and colonial buildings, it’s whole circumference joggable in thirty or forty minutes. In the mornings, the lake shores boom with techno music, colour-runs and Herbalife rallies. People take pictures with selfie sticks and practice ballroom dancing under the banyan trees. In the evenings, its banks are partly lit up and given over to strollers and gay cruising. A pleasant cafe sits on a terrace looking over the water. And traffic swirls around it day and night. But even with all of this, the lake maintains an aura of calm – its waters calm, grey and serene.

In a small island in the centre of the lake stands the Turtle tower, commemorating the lake’s greatest mystery, the strange giant creatures which perhaps still inhabit its grey depths.

These turtles became symbols of the city in Vietnamese myth after one of their forebears supposedly retrieved a magical sword lost in the lake. In fact the species, which can weigh up to 250 kg per specimen, was considered a myth itself until a turtle surfaced in the lake – in the very heart of a major city – in 1998.

That specimen has since died, and lies embalmed in pride of place at the Temple of the Jade Mountain, on a small island in the lake’s Northern reaches, connected to the city by  vermillion bridge thronged with local day trippers.

Another specimen was found floating dead earlier this year, leading to an outpouring of grief in the city and speculation as to the meaning of this omen.

Whether there are others in the lake still, or this was the very last of its kind, is not yet clear.


Strange beasts

3 03 2016


Bangkok this week was surprised by the sight of a roaring T-rex stuck in Sukhumvit traffic – it is to be a star attraction at a new robot-dinosaur park apparently about to open in the latest extension of the Emporium mall, on the former site of Washington Square, home to an entirely different species of dinosaur.

Meanwhile, Shanghai was being terrorised by its own mysterious beast, a stealthy web-footed carnivore leaving a trail of dead poultry in its wake.


I also came across this article on an unlikely intruder in Germany.

Art X Science II

1 02 2016


The beautiful anatomical drawings of Albertus Seba, a kind of seventeenth century Dutch Takagi Hauyama  who produced exquisite illustrations of all manner of birds, animals and sea creatures brought to Holland by ships from the newly discovered tropical countries, as well as the Hydra Hamburg (below), a creature on display in the German city later revealed to have been a fake made of weasels’ heads glued into snakes’ skins.

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Seba’s work has recently returned to popularity with a reprinting of his ilustrations by Taschen.

Hanoi’s turtle trouble..

25 01 2016

Australia’s ABC reports:

A giant turtle considered sacred in Vietnam and venerated as a symbol of the country’s independence struggle has died, according to state media.

The turtle’s death prompted an outpouring of grief and stoked fears it boded ill for an upcoming Communist leadership handover.

The reptile, a critically endangered Swinhoe’s softshell turtle occupies a key mythological role in Vietnam, and in the past the turtle generally surfaced only rarely, with its sightings deemed auspicious.

Full story here


Art x Science : A Japanese eye

16 01 2016



The nineteenth century anatomical drawings of Edo artist Takagi Haruyama . See more here.



I’ve always enjoyed these kind of illustrations, and I found a book of Japanese anamtomical illustrations from the Edo era, including Haruyama’s work as well as this fascinating but little-known illustration by artist Takanobu Koriki, who depicted the scene of a wicker replica of an elephant exhibited in a nineteenth-century Japanese freakshow to crowds who had, of course, never seen a real specimen.



Slow and steady wins the race

12 01 2016


A regular sight on the streets of the Tsukushima neighbourhood , this man taking his Saharan tortoise on its daily walk.


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