Back to Bangkok

3 08 2015





31 07 2015





The bats

20 07 2015

Ratchaburi’s most compelling attraction, although still surprisingly little known outside the city, is its astonishing batcave. In one of the karst outcrops that erupt suddenly from the fields a short drive outside the city, six million bats nest in a cave system, emerging each night in a continuous stream for some forty minutes, wave after wave forming intricate rippling patterns as they emerge into the sky.

It is truly awe-inducing.

The bats can be viewed at Wat Khao Chong Pran, a “bat temple’ decorated with effigies of the creatures, where locals comes to lie on the grass, some wearing Batman T-shirts, to enjoy the free show.





Justice for Joco

17 07 2015

In one of these bizarre, only-in Thailand turns of events this week, protesters converged on a Bangkok television station (ineffectually, but where else to protest?) to protest the revenge-attack eating of a dog in the country’s Northern province of Sakhon Nakorn. The attack, subject of a recent report by Channel Three, took place after a villager’s beloved husky dog, Joco, escaped and slaughtered 38 ducks in a neighbouring village.

The duck owners struck back the next night, allegedly dognapping, killing and eating the pet. I hadn’t known that Thai eat dogs, a specialty of that province.

On hearing the news, the Thai Huskies Association and “animal rights activists” led by a soap opera star sprung into action, protesting for “justice for Joco” although some online commentators were quick to point out their double standards; where was the concern for the rights of the ducks? And furthermore, given the cruelty of keeping a husky in a tropical climate, shouldn’t they be looking a bit closer to home before taking the moral high ground on animal welfare?

This was brought to home forcefully when I stumbled on to Bangkok’s (and surely the world’s first) late night gay dog cafe this week. Silom Soi 4’s former gay bar One Night Only, which used to have topless male models and a stripper pole, has now morphed into a living room-like space where patrons can sip a coffee, read quietly in the comic corner or pet the two huge Siberian huskies, three labradors or resident Afghan hound. Although the dogs certainly looked healthy, loved and well-cared for, the Afghan was passed out under a sofa desperately trying to sleep and the huskies lay for the most part with the faces pressed against one of several fans, trying to keep cool.





The monkeys of Ocean Park

11 07 2015

After four years in Hong Kong, working within a stone’s throw of one of its major attractions, I finally paid my first visit to it this week. Ocean Park is undeniably impressive in its scale and its professionalism, and that cable car ride is a killer but for some reason (the heat, the Indian tourists climbing fences to jump the queues…) I just wasn’t feeling it.

The highlights for me were the animals: Amazonian birds like currasows and toucans, the tiny golden marmosets, the hideously compelling giant salamanders and, I had hoped, the snub-nosed golden monkeys from Sichuan although as it turned out these were sleeping out of view.





Only in Japan

29 06 2015

A deceased train station cat becomes a Goddess

…and a ‘handome’ gorilla becomes an unlikely sex symbol.





Bangkok goes meow

24 06 2015

…or it will, at this weekend’s Tkrai Cat Art Party, featuring the sale of over 100 designs of hipster-cat T-shirts. Its happening at the interesting-sounding new bar Whiteline, which as brought a touch of artsy Charon Kreung-style bohemia to Silom.

More on the cats of Bangkok hereand here and the city’s recently deceased “gay cat movie star” here.








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