Looking to get away over the Chinese New Year Break, and from the last gasps of Hong Kong’s cold grey Winter, my boyfriend and I planned a short four-day trip to Seoul with some friends. The city was perhaps not an obvious choice. Both colder and greyer than Hong Kong, Seoul in February is still in the grip of its formidable Winter. A friend who had recently returned had had his trip foiled by endlessly overcast and icy days. He described a city that felt claustrophobic under its low, grey skies and counselled us to lower our expectations.
In addition, we had failed to factor in that Korea too would be celebrating the Lunar New Year – who knew? – so many shops and restaurants would be closed while at the same time a staggering influx of Mainlanders would be arriving for their own break. This would lead, potentially, to the interesting situation whereby we would be competing with huge crowds to visit closed attractions.
But what could we do? With some doubts lingering, we set out on our trip.
As it turns out, our friend had been both right and wrong. Yes, it was cold, hovering between minus 2 and 5 degrees. The nights were Arctic. In the mornings a weak sunlight would diffuse over the city but often by the afternoon grey clouds had settled. On our last day it rained for hours. And it was true the city could sometimes seem dour, with its grey skies, grey streets and grey concrete marching on as far as the eye could see.
But, but, but. There was something charming too about the city as it sat under the spell of Winter. Cafes were cozy, the pale morning light had a beauty to it, and the night air was bracing. Rugged up in coats, we rarely felt cold. It was refreshing and after the first day, the greyness and the chill in the air seemed somehow peaceful and calming.
On the last, rainy day, we spent the afternoon splashing in a lavish “spa resort” with hundreds of naked Koreans, enjoying hot baths, steam saunas and swimming in a (barely) heated outdoor pool as great plumes of vapour escaped into the surrounding chill and bathers shivered on the brisk walk back to the heated changing rooms.
It was my favourite day of the trip.
I even found myself missing the meditative cold when I got back to Hong Kong.
And as for the Chinese New year- yes, some places were closed. Some weren’t. The streets of the tourist districts were busy with Chinese tourists – ourselves, after all, included. It all turned out OK.
The impact of Chinese tourism fascinated me though. At almost every restaurant or store in Myeungdong or Samcheongdong, my friends could make orders or converse with shop staff in Mandarin. Signs in Chinese were everywhere – some in “Engrish” style wonky Chinese characters. One optometrist apparently offered services for those with “chaotic eyes”. Even street stalls had signs saying “We welcome RMB”. The whole streetscape of Myeungdong had altered – snack stalls catering to Chinese tastes and cosmetic stores aimed at their wallets had changed the aspect of the area. When had this happened? Of the formerly influential Japanese tourists, there was little sign.
Where once Seoul had been conspicuously under-touristed, and locals would greet foreigners with open arms and slightly disbelieving stares, the city had now been “discovered.” It had its own circuit of attractions – face masks and eggbread in Myeungdong, some BBQ, a stroll through Samcheongdong, snaps at the site of a favourite Korean drama or failing that a cardboard cut-out of its star, then maybe some skiing (or a quick nose job).
Locals were beginning to grumble. Dongdaemun was no longer favoured as a shopping spot they said, it was “too touristy.” And who needed so many damned face masks anyway?
It will be interesting to watch the city over the next few decades as the power balance in East Asia shifts – will Korea’s snowy Northern queen be swallowed up by Chinese money, or will it adeptly rise to the challenge, as it has risen to so many other challenges before? I’m pretty confident that Seoul will come out on top.
ilbonito blog 2007 