It was a hot balmy week the whole time we were in Sydney. But other than one trip across the glittering harbour to the beach at Watsons Bay and The Gap, where thundering cliffs mark the entrance to the harbour and the beginning of the wide expanse of the Pacific, we stayed in the Eastern suburbs.
We were crashing at a friend’s apartment in Rushcutters Bay, right next to the park, where every evening huge flocks of flying foxes would wake up from their roosts to fan out over the city. We would see them as we headed out for dinner or drinks on Oxford Street, a loop that repeated itself for several days – wandering from business in the city (picking up lost phones, following up on missing credit cards, and shopping in Kinokuniya) back home through the hot, quiet residential streets of Darlinghurt and Kings Cross, before heading out to Oxford Street in the evening, and back again. Rinse, repeat.
Everyone on the street was in mid-thigh length shorty shorts and tanktops, looking stylish and summery. Despite its sometimes poor reputation for fashion, I thought Sydneysiders projected a nuanced and desirable version of casual chic – everybody looked like they lived a life of painfully hip leisure.
The inner city suburbs themselves were gorgeous too, with quiet streets of expensive Victorian townhouses and flowering trees. On street corners there were funky little stores and hip-looking restaurants – many of them brightly coloured Mexican places a big trend in Australia last year (although the Peruvian wave which was popular in the States and even reached Hong Kong and Bangkok does not seem to have made much of an impact).
Some of my favourite discoveries were:
Messina, a brightly tiled gelateria where Arabs in swooshing white gowns lined up with local hipsters for what is claimed to be Australia’s best gelati – I had the coconut pandan, and pistacchio.
Dust: a poky corner store run by an eccentric French man piled high with ceramic skulls, javanese wedding dresses , kitsch artwork and period costume jewellery with this piece de resistance in the window: a real tiger skin moulded over a wooden tiger model, displayed with a pink wooded icy pole in its mouth. It was 350 dollars and I was tempted.
Comparing fasion footwear – and “shoe size” – at the Beresford
The Beresford. This formerly legendary gay pub was known for its raunchy Sunday beer marathons before closing for a very long time, and finally returning as a far more upscale straight bar – while retaining its Sunday afternoon gay slot. The super-Sydney crowd of beautiful people in expensively casual tanktops clinging to their intensively worked-out pecs pours in for happy hour in the lovely courtyard before drifting off to the upstairs dancefloor or elsewhere (as full drink prices are steep). After one such afternoon, we found ourselves invited to dinner at a nearby Japanese restaurant with an impossible-to-find toilet three flights down a locked door on the next block, and then a tres-gay house party on someone’s outdoor terrace, where the men talked about cooking and the women snorted amyl in lowcut party dresses. Sydney.