Street of a thousand stories

12 08 2017

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The street of Charoen Krung is a colourful Bangkok tale. The “new road” is, ironically, the city’s oldest, built at the behest of European merchants who had set up shop in vast mansions by the river in the eighteenth century, surviving today as the former French and current Portuguese embassies. The road begins in Chinatown, skirting the grimy tangle of the Talad Noi, an area of winding alleyways lined with workshops selling machinery, hooks and engines. From here it proceeds down – although often choked in traffic – past traditional Chinese shophouses and backstreet Indian and Muslim communities to Saphan Taksin, under the shadow of the doomed Sathorn Unique “ghost tower” (scroll down) and the boat shaped Wat Yannawa. Along the way it takes in the looming proto-fascist Central Post Office, tourist hordes disgorged from the riverside hotels, sometimes dubious tailor and gems stores, local street markets and quiet backstreets lined with wooden houses and hanging orchids.

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In the last few years, the area has become a locus for gentrification, adding another layer to its palimpset. There is incredible street art as a result of the Bukruk Street Art Festival and by the Warehouse30 development, galleries like Speedy Grandma and Soy Sauce Factory, and now bright hip little cafes like “Little Market” and (soon) flashy bar Tropical City.

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The apex of this new buzz is the refurbishment of the old General Post office as the Thailand Design and Culture Centre, an impressive complex of libraries, exhibition spaces and a rooftop terrace offering an awe-inspiring up-close view of the building facade’s gargantuan 1938 original Garuda statue, looking out over the skyline. It is truly iconic, a new view of Bangkok as a tropical Gotham. I was wowed.

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But the area is peppered with other, more low-key surprises – like this Vietnamese temple I never knew about, close to the Chinatown end, dating back to the nineteenth century and featuring a coop of sacred chickens under a bodi-sashed tree.

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Or Harmonique, a restaurant in an old Chinese mansion entered through a gap in an ancient banyan tree.

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Street art of Warehouse 30

12 08 2017

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I was eager to see the Warehouse 30 development, another “hipster park”, this time in reclaimed 1940s warehouses (hence the name) on Charoen Krung Soi 30. Here, leading Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag (from the Bunnag clan, an originally Persian family powerful in the country for centuries) is spearheading a cluster of restaurants, cafes, a plant store, a performance space and a documentary movie theatre, similar to the ChangChui deveopment which had impressed me earlier, but with a much more central location. Changchui has been popular since opening a few months earlier, can Bunnag’s track record (he developed the Jam Factory on the other side of the river) and location put him out in front? Unfortunately though the complex wasn’t quite ready when I went to visit. It was actually about to be opened to the public the following (ie, this) week.

Still though, I was able to take a stroll (one thing I have learned is that no-one in Thailand tries to stop you from wandering through construction sites!) and into the adjacent small alley, which I discovered to be covered in great street art from many of the city’s “big names” (Lolay, Alexface etc). Here, hot and bothered tourists were being hustled into tuktuks, exposing me to a crisis of divided loyalties – should I say something? In the end though, the stupidity of the tourist’s overheard questions lead me to the conclusion that they deserved to be ripped off…

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Bangkok: bold strokes

2 02 2016

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Freshly unveiled work from the Bukruk festival of street art in Bangkok around Chinatown and Bangrak. See all the pieces with the Bukruk google map here! 

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7 08 2015





Outsider art

7 08 2015

At first I thought they were for sale, stings of brightly coloured fish, fashioned out of soft drink bottles and dyed, and hung on wires next to the train tracks at Bang Khen, providing a dreamy breeze-driven mobile by the roaring traffic and the forlorn train tracks. But they weren’t. Somebody had just put them there to brighten the place up, a perfect example of “outsider art” – pure, uncommodified creativity. It brightened my day.





Siam Modern: Hattie Stewart

3 08 2015







Folk art and street art

31 07 2015

Although Udon Thani seemed much like any other big Thai city, as in all cities, there were subtle hallmarks if you looked hard enough. I noticed lots of red Chinese lanterns hanging outside shops, and lots of crippled Laotian beggars (more beggars than I have seen in any other Thai city.)

Interestingly, I also saw this, which I have never seen anywhere else in the country.

Several shops and restaurants downtown had these altar-like wall installations depicting the nine kings of the Chakri Royal dynasty, with the current king at the top – but who is the mysterious number ten at the bottom, the Crown Prince?

I also spotted a cool stretch of street art by the city’s only khlong. It was outside a funky looking bar/ restaurant called Loungban.